Greetings!
My name is Linda Martin. I am a
certified hoof care practitioner and owner of The Good Hoof. I
received my training and certification through the Pacific Hoof Care
Practitioners (www.pacifichoofcare.org).
My methods mirror those of the Pacific Hoof Care Practitioners,
Pete Ramey and (http://www.hoofrehab.com/) and
other non-invasive hoof care practitioners.
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WHAT IS A GOOD HOOF?
Wild horse hooves offer a model of shape & soundness.
However, the
hooves of domestic horses should not be forced into a predetermined
form dictated by the wild model.
Each domestic horse's hoof has a
sound "wild type" hoof that is encouraged to develop as a result of proper trimming and
care.
A good hoof is one that is sound,
allows heel first landings & comfortable movement
over varied terrain.
A good hoof stays healthy and strong over time.
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Not all barefoot trims support proper hoof mechanism. Many horses seem
unable to adjust to being barefoot because of improper or extreme
trimming; which might include flat trims (or pasture trims), long toes,
improper break-over, flares, imbalances, and/or invasive cutting of the
sole and frog.
Transition to barefoot living should be done carefully and thoughtfully
and may require some time using hoof boots.
In transitioning a shod horse to barefoot living and maintaining
barefoot hooves, my methods focus on continuous and comfortable
movement and maximum soundness. To achieve this one must:
1. Utilize the landmarks present in each hoof (i.e. the hard sole
plane, collateral grooves, white line and the angle of the limb)
to guide proper trimming;
2. Combine the above with an understanding of hoof anatomy
and growth and finally;
3. Take into consideration the ground on which the horse moves in work and in daily living.
The hoof can then be trimmed to correct imbalances, address pathologies, and remove hoof material that nature would wear away,
if the horse lived & moved as wild horses do.
MY TRIM
Each horse and each hoof is different; however, during a typical trim I will:
1. Observe the hoof's angle of growth, flares, imbalances and cracks.
2. Remove loose, chalky and/or restrictive build up of dead sole from the bottom of the hoof.
3. Assess sole thickness using depth of collateral grooves.
4.
Check frog sensitivity & remove loose flaps of frog which prevent
air from circulating and lead to fungal infections.
5. Trim
the hoof wall relative to level of the healthy sole. The amount removed is determined by hoof condition & living conditions. Length
of a finished trimmed wall may range from level with healthy sole to
1/16" beyond the live sole plane.
6. Lower the heels if necessary to help bring the coffin bone closer to round parallel and encourage a heel first landing.
7. Shorten the toes if necessary and remove flares in the outer hoof wall.
8. Check angles and medial lateral balance.
9. Finish the ground edge of the hoof wall with a "mustang roll," rounding and softening break-over.
10. Pre-trim and post-trim photos may be taken in some cases.
11. If necessary your horse will be fitted with hoof boots and you will be instructed in their proper use.
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The finished hoof should be balanced and symmetrical, and the exterior hoof, walls and sole, should fit evenly around the internal
structures of the hoof.
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The ABC's of BETWEEN TRIM CARE - THIS IS YOUR JOB!
It is now widely recognized that unnatural diets and living conditions
and
poor hygiene can cause serious health and hoof problems. To ensure
healthy hooves you should plan to address the following areas:
The
old
adage "use it or lose it" is critical, when it comes to developing
& maintaining healthy feet. Only through movement can your
horse's digital cushions, lateral cartilages and frogs be kept sound.
Only by keeping these critical components of the hoof healthy can your
horse live in maximum health.
I highly recommend that you set up a track system, or "Paddock Paradise" for your horse. This will to encourage greater
levels of movement and exercise...and that is a wonderful way to care for your horse.
B. HOOF HYGIENE
Clean
hooves daily. If your horse walks through manure or urine, or stands
in a moist area that is not completely free of waste, then you should clean the hooves daily. Clean deep into
the central sulcus & collateral grooves. After picking, brush out
all material using a stiff bristled brush. (BBQ cleaning brushes work
great to clean frog & sole). Treat Thrush immediately. There are
many non-irritating treatments available for treating thrush.
I recommend a weekly application of Hooflex Thrush Remedy,
by Absorbine, as a thrush preventative. For deep sulcus thrush use
"Pete's Goo" and for treating thrush or white line that is persistent,
soaking hooves in activated Oxine, White Lightening or Clean Trax is
highly effective. Please see the "Healthy Hoof" website for details
& directions on the above treatments, plus more great information
on treating thrush http://www.healthyhoof.com/articles/Thrush/ThrushRevisited.html.
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If
you do not have the time to clean & treat your horses hooves please
let me help arrange to have a hoof care specialist come take care of
your horses hooves. Your horse will thank you!
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C. DIET & FEEDING
By
recognizing how horses are designed to eat, and by managing their diet
under domestication, many health and soundness problems can be
avoided.
What do you feed your horse? Rich pasture, high sugar hay and concentrates should be tightly restricted or eliminated from your horses diet. Obesity is the #1 enemy of sound feet. A diet high in soluble
carbohydrates (sugars and starch) can lead to problems ranging from
weakened laminae, thrush & white line prone hooves, to full blown
laminitis and founder.
Test your hay & balance your horses diet. If possible you
should have you hay tested for nutrients & minerals. This requires
collecting core samples from about 12 bales & sending them to an
analytical lab, such as Equine Analytical (http://www.equi-analytical.com).
I would be happy to bring my stainless steal corer to test your hay.
Using the results from you hay analysis I will formulate a supplement
that will provide a balanced diet for your horse.
How do you feed your horse? The equine digestive system evolved to receive a small & nearly continuous supply of vegetative matter over each 24 hour period. Feeding a flake of hay twice a day does not
provide your horse with an ideal eating situation. You can help your
horse avoid both boredom & ulcers by using "slow feeders" or small
mesh hay nets. These systems allow your horse to eat meals over many
hours, rather than in the 1-2 hours most horses take to consume a
meal. (Back to top of page)